The Birkin Bag: The Story Behind the World's Most Desired Handbag

1 minutes reading time
Published 12 Jul 2024
Reviewed by: Kasper Karlsson

There are few items in the world that command the level of reverence and allure as the Birkin bag. This iconic handbag has a story that perfectly encapsulates how top-tier brands cultivate desirability. Let's dive into the fascinating history behind the creation of the most desired handbag ever made: the Birkin.

  • Origins: How a chance encounter between style icon Jane Birkin and Hermès Chairman Jean-Louis Dumas on a Paris-to-London flight led to the creation of the legendary Birkin bag.

  • The Elusive Quest: The intricacies behind acquiring a Birkin, where even having the cash isn't enough – it's about relationships, purchase history, and sheer luck.

  • Obsession and exclusivity: The invitation-only system that has turned the Birkin into an obsession for luxury enthusiasts, driving its desirability and value sky-high.

  • Genius luxury branding: How Hermès brilliantly uses scarcity, secrecy, and unpredictability to craft the allure of the Birkin, making it the ultimate symbol of luxury and desire.

An Unexpected Encounter

Hermès, the storied French luxury fashion house founded in 1837, had already cemented its place in the annals of luxury by the time the 1980s rolled around. Yet, its most famous product, the Birkin bag, was not born until an unexpected meeting between two iconic figures. Jane Birkin, an actress, singer, and style icon, was known for carrying a wicker basket instead of a purse. During a flight from Paris to London, she found herself seated next to Jean-Louis Dumas, the then Executive Chairman of Hermès.

Struggling with the overhead compartment, Birkin complained about her difficulty in finding a leather weekend bag that could accommodate all her belongings. She even suggested that Hermès consider creating a larger version of their 1935 classic Kelly bag, named after Hollywood star Grace Kelly. But Dumas had an even better idea.

The Birth of an Icon

Together, Birkin and Dumas spent the rest of the flight sketching designs on the back of an airsickness bag, creating the blueprint for what would become the Birkin bag. Roughly a year later, in 1984, Hermès introduced the first Birkin bag. Despite its illustrious origins, early sales were surprisingly mediocre.

Fast forward to today, the Birkin bag commands prices ranging from $12,000 to $50,000, with some exclusive models reaching mid-six figures. Yet, even if you have the financial means, purchasing a Birkin is not a straightforward process.

The Elusive Quest

For the past two decades, the waiting list for a Birkin has often spanned over six years, driven by extraordinary demand and limited production. In 2010, Hermès transitioned from a formal waiting list to an "allocation system," wherein individual sales associates determine which customers are offered the opportunity to purchase a Birkin.

This shift added another layer of mystery and exclusivity. Now, acquiring a Birkin involves a combination of purchase history, relationships with sales associates, and a stroke of luck. The new system theoretically allowed anyone a chance to score a Birkin, but in reality, the process became even more enigmatic, with sales associates acting as the gatekeepers to this coveted treasure.

The Obsession and the Secret

This system of invitation-only sales, coupled with the bag's rarity and high price, has turned the hunt for a Birkin into an obsession for luxury enthusiasts. The allure of owning a Birkin is as much about the journey as it is about the bag itself. Speculation on how to earn the right to purchase a Birkin has run rampant, leading to an open secret: to buy a Birkin, you must earn it.

The typical path to earning this honor includes making numerous purchases of other Hermès items, maintaining a long-standing relationship with a sales associate, and, of course, having a bit of luck. And when the moment finally arrives, you don't get to choose the size, color, or price – you simply accept what is offered with a grateful "Yes, please!"

The luxury resale hierarchy
The luxury resale hierarchy

The Genius of Hermès

In essence, Hermès rewards its most loyal customers with access to its most coveted product. This strategy not only enhances the value of the Birkin but also increases the desirability of other Hermès items. It's a masterstroke in creating brand equity and driving sales simultaneously.

From 1980 to 2015, Birkins appreciated at an impressive ~14% compound annual growth rate, outperforming fine jewelry and even the S&P 500. The Kelly bag, a close cousin, is not far behind in value appreciation.

The Anatomy of Desire

Secretive, scarce, and unpredictable – these are the pillars of luxury branding that Hermès has masterfully leveraged to craft the allure of the Birkin. This strategy, combined with Hermès' rich heritage, has undeniably created the most desired handbag in the world.

The story of the Birkin bag is not just about a handbag; it's about the artistry of creating desire, the power of exclusivity, and the timeless allure of luxury. It's a story that continues to captivate and inspire, much like the Birkin bag itself.


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